SINHARAJA: A TRAIL UNFORGETTABLE- Part 02

Smelling nature

We woke up in the morning to a beautiful dawn.  It was a refreshing Sunday. Fortunately, it was a sunny day as well.  We all felt that we were breathing some unpolluted fresh air. It had a healing effect on us. After our ablution, we settled for a traditional Sri Lanka breakfast with red rice and accomplishments including a popular dish of Pol Sambol. In fact, we had elaborate plans for the day.  We were to hike the hilly terrain of Sinharaja Forest to see six waterfalls cascading down within the confines of 2 Sq Km. We bought the tickets at the counter with a Rs 1000/- note. The cashier had no change money to give us the balance. He politely told us to collect the balance on the way back. And we were told that it was mandatory that we were accompanied by a guide. So, we got hold of a guide named Pradeep.  The ascend was so steep. By the time we reached the top of the first waterfall ‘Brakmana Ella’, we were almost panting for breath. But, the jungle trail was absolutely amazing. At this point, we had to abandon our team member Dr. Dharmarathna as he was too tired to continue the trail uphill due to his old age. He set upon a descent at his own pace as we resumed our trail up the mountain. The interior was quite gloomy as it was covered by the expanse of the jungle canopy above. The vegetation was breathtaking. I asked our guide about some lizards and trees which we came upon. But, he was clueless and nonplussed to offer an explanation. Eventually, he admitted that he was still a novice guide and was yet to secure the guide’s licence issued by the Department of Wildlife & Nature conservation.  We later got to know that even the licensed guides lacked knowledge of the flora and fauna of this exclusive nature reserve.  They are only capable of showing the waterfalls guiding them through a beaten path. 

Why is Sinharaja so important? 

Sinharaja Forest Reserve or Sinharaja Rain Forest is considered a biodiversity hotspot and Biosphere reserve.  Furthermore, it is said to be the last viable terrain of primary tropical forest in the region as recognized by the International Union of Conservation of Nature (IUCN). We could fathom its importance because it has been declared a world heritage site by UNESCO. In 1988.  This was preceded by the declaration of the world biosphere reserve in 1978. Sinharaja is home to 60 % of endemic and rare trees, 95 % of endemic birds, and 50 % of other endemic species that include butterflies in particular, amphibians, snakes, and fish.  According to the census conducted by the Department of Wildlife, Sinharaja is inhabited by two elephants, 15 leopards, and a score of purple-faced langurs. The forest reserve is situated in a land expanse of 88.64 Sq Km. Sinharaja is nestled bordering 60 % of Ratnapura district while sharing 20 % each of Galle and Kalutara districts.  This forest can be traced back to the Jurassic era of 200-145 million years. While strolling through the rugged paths of Sinharaja, it reminded me of the legendary Martin Wijesinghe who was the unofficial caretaker and the uncommissioned professor of Sinharaja Forest Reserve until his demise in 2021. He was a self-taught naturalist whom even top scientists and researchers depended on. Although he studied only up to the eighth grade, he became obsessed with the nature reserve during his younger age. Joining the Department of Wildlife and Forest Conservation in 1981 merely as a cook, he learned the heartbeat of the jungle of his own volition.  He left an inimitable legacy when he died in 2021 leaving an irreparable void.  Martin had been conferred many accolades during his lifetime notably the National Lankatilake award in 1994 and a prestigious award from none other than Harvard University for his invaluable contribution to the rain forest.  He was an exemplary character to emulate especially by the forest guides of the modern age. 

Once again on the trail 

Six picturesque waterfalls are formed through two tributary streams that flow into Gin River down the precipice. We were trekking through the basin of two streams. Having seen the Brakmana Ella waterfall which is the main attraction, we ascended further to witness the second fall: Uranwetutunu Ella waterfall. Water cascades along a steep slope into a precarious-looking pond below. The slope of the waterfall was quite high. The guide Pradeep cautioned us to be careful when stepping over the rocks as they might be slippery. Thereafter, we further moved up and reached the peak.  At the top, we saw the Nuga Deka Ella waterfalls.  At this waterfall, the water flows through a large Na tree. We took a break at this point as we were really tired after the steep climb. Now, it was time for the descent.  Now we were going to see three waterfalls on our climb down. We were feeling so relieved to embark on our descent. It was quite easy to descend but our legs were still aching after a tiresome climb.  On the way down, we came across our next destination: Thattu Ella Falls.  It was easy to understand how this waterfall got its distinctive name. The waterfall falls down through three rapids over the rocks.  Thereafter, we climbed down further. On this down trail, we saw many merrymakers. Some were bathing at certain safe points of the stream. At one point, we were given a biscuit treat that was a good fill at a time of a strenuous journey of this nature. Further on the descent, we came upon the most spectacular waterfall we had ever seen. It was simply amazing with a breathtaking view. The waterfall was known as Gal Oruwa Ella. It was a long stretch of cascading water going through rock formations that replicate a stone canoe of the ancient Anuradhapura era.  It also reminded me of the unique stone sluice gate of Sorabora Tank in Mahiyanganaya.  We didn’t have the heart to take our eyes off the waterfall. We only saw a glimpse of Duwili Ella waterfalls as by that time, we were starved of our energy so we literally detoured the waterfall. Eventually, we reached the Wildlife Department Ticket Counter. 

Our return trip to Colombo

We were to return to Colombo on the same day.  But, we decided to have a dip in the stream at the estuary. After a quick bath, we settled for our much-awaited lunch at the resort.  After lunch, we started to pack our bags for the return journey.  But, our series of miseries started to unravel by now.  We were told that no busses were plying on Sundays so we had no way of proceeding to the nearest town of Neluwa. Unfortunately, the hotel management was away and not reachable over the phone. We had no alternative but to walk 16 Km back to Neluwa town. Reluctantly, we embarked on this arduous journey.  Dr. Dharmarathna found it difficult to keep pace with the two of us as he was moving at the speed of a snail. After walking about 1 ½ Km, our saviour stumbled upon us.  It was none other than our friendly guide Pradeep. He was generous enough to give a ride to the ailing Dr. Dharmarathna on his motorbike. Charith and I walked about 4 Km on the rural track until we came across in-waiting Dr. Dharmarathna. So, he broke the sweetest news to us. Apparently, the hotel management had contacted him and offered transport.  The guide Pradeep was quite rich in that he had a basic car in his possession. The hotel management told him to drop us off at Neluwa town which he graciously agreed. When we reached Neluwa town, there was a slight downpour. We took shelter at the Bank of Ceylon building until the hotel management sent us the van in which we were to travel to Colombo.  Finally, we made it to Colombo at 9.30 pm with happy and rather nostalgic memories of new experiences, new knowledge, new vibes, ordeals, and a fervent hope for a visit again to this resplendent  as well.